Aegean Crossing sea kayak expedition:
Piraeus to Kos
31October -13 November, 2003
Expedition Members: Peter Avery (Aus), Justin Gallager (Aus), Jon Hunter (UK), Nick Cuncliffe (UK) Peter Roscoe (UK), Rod Feldtmann (Aus).
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Expedition area to enlarge map
The
Rainbow
Warriors,
by Peter Rosccoe.
It’s amazing how much gear can be crammed into the smallest of
vehicles and the Peugeot driven by Rod Feldtmann, carrying Peter A,
Julian and Pete.R with its roof-rack loaded down with six Rainbow Lazer kayaks
proved that some kayakers must undertake training at a sardine canning factory.
Camping at a small beach near Athen's port of Piraeus we waited for Nick and Jon (on the overnight flight from England) to
complete the group.
On the following morning and with the group at its full strength of six
we set about the task of loading mountains of gear into the Rainbow sea-kayaks.
Over the following two weeks we planned to make the crossing of the Aegean by
paddling from Piraeus to the island of Kos, via the mainland of Turkey.
Loaded up, we launched and commenced our journey. Starting off with
simple navigation we kept land to our left and headed southerly towards our
first campsite, a quiet beach at Saronis.
As we followed the coast towards point Cape Sounio we looked up to a headland
topped by ancient ruins, the Temple of Poseidon, God of the Sea commands a
spectacular viewpoint out over the islands of the Cyclades .
In cooler conditions we continued to the south of Kea and crossed to Kithnos where after a visit to the local
store for supplies we enjoyed lunch at the Austria taverna.
Replete, the pace eased off as we pottered along the coast to a tiny
beach at the southern tip of Kithnos and set up tents in overcast skies. During
the night we were 'treated' to a thunderstorm with torrential rain and
spectacular lightening, the resultant stream almost washing through Rod's tent.
Winds to F5,
occasional showers and choppy water made the three hour crossing to Serifos a
somewhat chilly paddle and Justin, relaxing for a moment in the clapotis,
mistimed a wave and proceeded to show us what a fine swimmer he is. With Justin
quickly re-installed, we made our way to a nearby
beach for drinks and a welcome snack. On arrival at the quiet but
sheltered campsite at Serifos the Trangia was put to good use producing a
plentiful supply of bacon butties. Nick, Rod and myself wandered off to visit
the nearby Kastro, a small village perched on a hilltop with steep steps, narrow
lanes and a superb panorama looking out over the next days crossing with its
white flecked waves.
The sunrise and fresh winds greeted us as we commenced the stretch to
Sifnos where we sought shelter at the tiny fishing village of Yeoryiou,
Unusually there seemed to be a sheep resting on the quayside, closer inspection
showed it to be a freshly butchered animal and within a short time two of
the islanders skinned and chopped the carcass into manageable pieces which were
carted off in a wheelbarrow. As we left the beach the bright hue of a Kingfisher
sparkled in the watery sun. Heading to the east of Sifnos we bounced our way
through clapotis as it reflected off the soaring cliffs, a two hour roller
coaster ride ending at a handkerchief sized beach with just enough room to
squeeze the tents in. Supplies were needed and as darkness enveloped us we
walked to the nearby town of Kastro, stocked up and managed to find an open
taverna for a welcome meal.
Strong winds greeted us as we headed easterly and across to the small
island of Stronglio, a short stretch and then a welcome break in the
shelter of Despotiko. Rounding the cliffs of Andiparos we looked out and onwards
to the low lying collection of islands which make Pandrosini such a inviting
place and as evening approached a landing on Paros. Our campsite on the municipal
car park at Aliki was a little austere but with four crossings and
five islands visited this had been a busy day.
Taking advantage of all available shelter we hugged the coast of Paros
and headed towards the port of Livadhi
Fortified by bacon butties we made our way to the headland of Kratzi,
sheltered and commenced the 7km crossing to Naxos. Strong winds, guesstimated at
F 7 slowed progress to a crawl and blew us downwind by some 3 km. Close to
shore conditions improved and with a following sea we were soon at 'Hotel Naxos'
. This was my forth visit to the unfinished hotel at
Kouroupas, its beginning to feel like home ground.
Slightly better conditions greeted us and we made our way to the south
of Naxos for a short break before heading across to the harbour on Skhinousa.
The wind, funneling between the islands increased and a steady slog ensued until
welcome relief in the shelter of Karos. A quick snack, and on to Andi-Karos,
which, in over-cast skies was not as spectacular as on previous occasions. With
strong winds and limited camping available we decided to push on to Amorgos.
With darkness approaching our minds focused on the need for a suitable landing
site. Fortune favoured us, rounding a headland we arrived at a small beach
complete with a deserted beach bar . The bar closed for the winter, provided
shelter from the wind and shortly after eating the evening meal only snores (
from all the others ) disturbed the peace and quiet.
Leaving our bay we traveled north-east to Katapola where on arrival we
were greeted by an entrepreneurial Texan lady. Owner of a nearby cafe and eager
to relieve us of our Euros she offered to supply us with sandwiches. More
substantial fare was required and we were soon installed at a taverna piling in
the calories. Across the bay another beach bar beckoned and with tents and
equipment sorted we walked back into town in order to obtain a weather forecast
for the next few days. The George Hotel had internet access which indicated that
winds would be decreasing to F2 for the remainder of the trip. This good
news sharpened up the appetites of my colleagues who promptly suggested a
visit to a highly recommended Pizza Place. I've not seen pizzas the size of tyre
covers before and was overwhelmed within minutes of starting. A St Bernard sized
doggie bag was needed to carry out the uneaten food.
The wind, unaware of the internets predictions, stayed strong as we
passed the island of Nikouria which
rises like a pyramid to a height of 365 metres. A short visit to Ligadhia and on
to a storm beach at the north of Amorgos. En-route magnificent cliffs reflected
the wind driven waves, the resultant chaos giving us a ride to remember. Before
seeking the calm of the bay we peered out from a headland to look out at the
hazy outline of tomorrows island.
Ashore and with driftwood in abundance, a fine blaze was soon sorted with sparks
rising to join the clear nights stars.
Up at five, (what a painful experience) and heading out shortly after
six on bouncy seas the rising sun warmed
us as we paddled out to Kinaros, some 26 km in the distance. Here cliffs soared
neck creakingly from the black water and the skipper of a passing fishing boat
shouted that respite lay around the next corner. In a quiet and secluded bay was
a small cottage,the occupants surrounded by their herd of goats in a remote
existence. Feeling like intruders we lunched quickly and waved our farewells and
continued island hopping to Levitha. Here a large multi-pronged bay, ideal
anchorage for yachts suggested shelter but unfortunately limited beaches. Diligent
searching revealed a small garden patch protected by walls and thorns, nicknamed
the 'kraal' it provided us with excellent accommodation and a good nights sleep.
Away in time to watch the sun tear itself away from the horizons grip
the winds to F4 kept us occupied on this the longest crossing to Kalimnos of 34
km. In lumpy water we encountered two large freighters who may not have been
aware of our existence and a trawler whose skipper gave us a cheery wave.
Maintaining a compass bearing in the hazy conditions we were surprised
when a check on the GPS showed a noticeable drift. As features on the island
became more recognizable we adjusted course to a welcome landing at Panoros
after over seven hours of paddling, the final kilometres being hard work.
Somewhat weary we wandered into a nearby taverna for a leisurely lunch and to
recuperate. Leaving our landing spot we headed for another beach bar, the local
water babies wishing us 'bon voyage' a remarkable comment from a quiet Greek
island. As evening descended Rod and I walked back into town to sample waffles
smothered in ice cream and honey. Superb! Kalimnos has a vast area of inland
crags popular with climbers eager to sample steep rock and sunshine, we met up
with a couple of Americans who had spent an enjoyable holiday exploring the
region.
The island of Kalimnos has magnificent cliffs with red roofed
monasteries perched in seemingly inaccessible places, the red roofs an
indication that we moved from the Cyclades into the Dodecanese region. Entering
the sea port of Kalimnos was an extreme contrast
to our previous stops. This bustling town seemed a madhouse after the
peace and quiet of the other places visited en-route. Great choice for supplies
though.
Approaching the headland of Roussa we
could see someone dashing towards what looked like a military establishment.
Within minutes the roar of a high powered engine signaled the arrival of the
Coast Guard who were most interested in our destination. Ambitions of a detour
to Turkey were modified as we altered course to the port at Kos.
Peter and Justin, keen to complete the full crossing dashed to the
offices of the Port authorities and obtained the paperwork needed to leave Greek
waters. Rod and Nick followed in hot pursuit and waving release forms the
quartet wasted no time in offloading gear and heading north.
Jon and I stayed to look after the gear and to wander round the Castle
and port of Kos. After little more than an hours paddling the kayakers were
sitting on a
Arriving at Piraeus, the Peugeot was again loaded with the kayaks as Rod
and I said farewell to Nick and Jon.
On the return ferry to Milos, Rod, keen to develop kayaking in the area, produced charts of the region and the possibility of future excursions, Kos to Rhodes via the volcanic islands of Nisyros and Tilos?, another along the indented coast of Turkey and the Greek island of Symi?, a circumnavigation of Crete?, and so it goes on. Lots to do. It all looks so good.
My thanks to the 'Rainbow Warriors'
Peter, Justin, Nick, Jon and Rod, excellent companions during fourteen
days of paddling, an Aegean crossing of almost 500 km's, some twenty islands and
a host of memories.
Peter H Roscoe.
November 2005